On Location: Small-Ship Sailing in Croatia with Katarina Line
by Cheryl Rosen /
Travelers looking for something a little more adventurous, unique and memorable than a traditional cruise — but at about the same price point — might be interested in a new small-ship itinerary along the Croatian coast being offered by Katarina Line, Croatia’s largest DMC.
The seven-day sailing carries up to 38 passengers along 360 miles of Adriatic coastline, from Opatija to Dubrovnik; it mirrors the boot of Italy, on the Eastern shore of the sea rather than the Western. And indeed, the Venetian influence is strong in the cities and towns along the route. The ancient Roman and newer Renaissance Italian buildings and cathedrals hug each other in the summer sun, and many guests fly to Venice and then take a car (two hours of beautiful views) or a ferry to get here.
But, the real highlight of the cruise is the novelty of being on such a small ship. After the breakfast buffet, there is a daily swim stop where everyone jumps into the clear water of the Adriatic. Usually, there is lunch before we arrive in port, tie up along the main street and head ashore for a walking tour. Then everyone is free to wander and explore and find dinner as the locals do, four courses in a fancy restaurant or a simple fish dinner at a konoba (a traditional Croatian restaurant or tavern) by the sea.
The view in Dubrovnik.
A mélange of cultures
Croatia itself is a mélange of cultures and histories that span centuries and borders and ethnicities, spread out over 1,200 islands. It was Venetian, it was Roman, it was Austrian, it was German, it was Fascist, it was Communist. It’s been invaded by Napoleon and bombed by the Allies and the Bosnians. The forts date back to the year 200 and served as sets for the smash cable TV hit "Game of Thrones." And walking the medieval walls of Dubrovnik rivals the adventure and beauty of walking the Great Wall of China.
Onboard when we arrive is the remarkable Katarina Hauptfeld herself to greet us. Hauptfeld has built the line from one ship in 1992 to 60 today through a unique sort of franchise model: all ships are owned by their captains, though Katarina helps with the financing. The captain of our ship, the Admiral, owns three ships, and he or one of his three sons is always onboard.
One could say that sailing runs in the Hauptfeld family, as well. Katarina’s grandfather sailed the Carpathia, the ship that rescued the survivors of the Titanic. Today, Katarina’s vessels contribute about a third of the company’s revenues, carrying about 30,000 of the company’s 90,000 customers; the rest come for land vacations and FITs.
The Admiral is a Deluxe category ship; there are several lower and one higher class, Deluxe Superior, which offers more space, bigger rooms, private balconies and jacuzzis. Five new ships will join the fleet next year, all of them in the Deluxe Superior category, as Katarina Line finds the demand growing on the high end rather than the low.
The ship's dining room.
As the passengers check in, we find that six are from the U.S. and Canada; the rest are from South Africa, Australia and the U.K. Two are travel agents on fam trips to check out the ship. Katarina Line relies heavily on its agent network, hosting seven or eight fam trips a year that offer free passage to agents and 30-percent discounts to one guest they bring along. Katarina is offering free fam trips to travel agents through October.
At 50 meters, “this is not like a big cruise ship; you’re not out in the harbor. You’re free to come and go and do what you want,” Hauptman said.
While most of the guests are couples and families, full-ship rentals by families and special-interest and corporate groups also are possible. The largest corporate event, Katarina said, brought together 350 guests on 11 ships, meeting up for dinner and events on shore.
Ancient cities, independent experiences
The seven-day itinerary is new this year. Previously, Katarina offered a roundtrip from Opatija, but when it tested this straight sail the length of the coast last summer, customers liked it for the variety of experiences it offered. Now, Katarina ships sail the itinerary weekly, in both directions.
Our route takes us first to the beautiful island of Rab, built about 10 B.C. More than 300 natural underground springs feed the bougainvillea that blossom here, and scuba is popular. There is a medieval festival every year on July 25-27, a great time to visit; and a mellow vibe that once attracted England’s King Edward and Wallace Simpson, who swam in their birthday suits at the nude beach in 1936.
Next comes Zadar, once part of Venice, boasting streets wide enough for 10 soldiers. There is a Roman forum and the remains of the biggest temple on the Adriatic, and a unique “water organ” built along the ocean so the water plays the notes as it rushes past. Alfred Hitchcock called Zadar’s sunset the most beautiful in the world, and got the idea for "The Birds" from the ones in the skies overhead, our guide said.
Alfred Hitchcock called Zadar’s sunset the most beautiful in the world.
In Skradin, we visit the BIBICh winery and taste the local vintage, then swim in the clear waterfall of the national park.
Beautiful Split is next, with its Roman palace, built by emperor Diocletian around 300 but most popular as the set for "Game of Thrones." The dragons apparently are on vacation, but even today, 300 families live in the castle and tourists rent rooms through Airbnb.
But the best is Dubrovnik, where ancient walls and narrow streets soar above the sea. Someone notes that ancient cities were built with their most beautiful views facing the ocean, from where all visitors were arriving, and Dubrovnik does not disappoint. We ride the cable car to the top of the mountain and, as tourists have done for centuries, and walk the wall that surrounds and protects the old city.
Different from a river cruise
Onboard, meanwhile, Lynn Fraser, owner of Topwin Africa Tours in Pretoria, South Africa, said sailing on the Admiral is “a very good way of traveling, and different from a river cruise. You’re out on your own more. It’s a very good combination of independent travel and an organized tour.”
The perfect customer is one who “doesn’t like to be in a crowd and doesn’t like the hassle of getting in and off buses,” Fraser said. “The ship was a pleasant surprise; the boat is spotless and extremely well maintained. It’s definitely not five-star, but it’s very comfortable, it’s got everything you want. And it offers a huge diversity of experiences, and independence in each little town in the evenings. I’ve enjoyed the food; the helpings aren’t too big, you can enjoy four courses and you don’t feel like you’ve eaten too much.”
Even alone in the small streets — and as we watched Croatia lose the World Cup in soccer — she felt comfortable in Croatia. Fraser added: “The architecture is just amazing and the people are very gentle, friendly and honest. It’s one of the easier travel destinations we’ve been to; we felt like we didn’t have to worry about anything. And the majority speak English. So, Croatia, for me, has been a very pleasant destination.”
On the last day onboard, “I wish it was a little bit longer,” Fraser said. “This is my first experience on a small ship in Croatia and I would definitely recommend it.”