Travel Sellers Report: Circling America on Amtrak – Part 2

Ted and Sylvia Blishak own Train Travel Consulting at Accent on Travel, based in Klamath Falls. They have been named one of the world’s top travel specialists by Conde Nast Traveler magazine every year since 2002. Last week, they shared their train journey from Oregon to New Orleans. Here, they complete their rail journey around the country.

Crossing Mississippi, Amtrak’s Southern Crescent $20 swung through swamps and thickets with the last traces of fall colors. Wooden barns in picturesque decay came into view on our journey across the south to Greenville, SC, where we disembarked to visit our son and his family. Spring-like weather greeted us.

By the time we re-boarded the Southern Crescent #20 to continue to Washington, DC, it was pouring rain and all the passengers were soaked. The attendant gave us a warm greeting and carried our bags up the steps and into our cozy Viewliner Roomette. This contained an upper and lower bunk and a toilet and sink. The beds were comfortable and the upper bunk had its own window.

Amtrak consistently supplies route guides and timetables for each train that explain onboard services, functions of each crew member, etc. Under “Scenic Highlights” for this train, Vibrant Northeast Cityscapes included Atlanta, Washington, and New York City. Also included in this Scenic Highlights list are the Blue Ridge foothills, which we passed at night.

Detraining at Union Station in Washington, we repaired to the first class Acela Lounge, which featured comfortable chairs and handy work spaces, plus free coffee and soft drinks. The station had a large mall area in which everything imaginable is sold. Between trains, it was possible to walk from the station to some of our nation’s icons, including the Capitol.

Thanksgiving in Pittsburgh. After a few hours, we boarded the Amtrak Superliner Capitol Limited to Pittsburgh, where we were on time at 12 minutes to midnight. Ted’s brother was waiting to drive us to Ambridge, Ted’s hometown, for a family Thanksgiving.

Leaving Pittsburgh by night, we were surrounded by an entrancing festival of light. Luminescense from buildings and bridges reflected in the Ohio River. The Gulf Building was capped with an illuminated pyramid; one building featured glowing blue stripes. Some high-rises were decorated with Christmas lights of many colors.

Chicago-bound. We set our watches back an hour and looked forward to the 25-hour days ahead, as we would gain an hour with each westbound time-zone change. This train’s dining car was newly remodeled; it provided some larger booths that seat more than four people, great for large families with children.

Chicago is Amtrak’s largest hub. In fact, one cannot travel from Pacific to Atlantic without changing trains here. Upon arrival, we were happy that the old station’s grand concourse was available to sit in, and was festooned with extravagant Christmas decorations; it provided a cooler, less crowded option than the added-on Amtrak Metropolitan Lounge for first class sleeping car passengers.

The newer section of the building contained the ticket counter and a food court upstairs. Several hotels with fine restaurants were within walking distance; the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower) was close, too. Several long-distance trains departed in the afternoon; our Superliner Empire Builder #27 was one of them. Redcaps came into the lounge to take us and our luggage to the sleeping car we’d reserved.

Farm country. Leaving Chicago for Portland, Oregon, provided a landscape of rolling farm country with winter-fallow fields. A few brown leaves clung to skeletons of trees; gray ponds reflected a gray sky. This wintry landscape was restful; it did not seize the eye and demand to be watched.

The train paused at Red Wing, Minnesota after dark. The town’s triple-globe street lights were a traditional treat compared to the garish sodium-vapor lights overused in so many places. Freight trains growled past us in the night.

We awoke about 4 a.m., and saw a dusting of snow illuminated by a full moon. Towns were few and small here in the North Dakota prairie. At breakfast the amber-colored sun began struggling up over the flat landscape; the train was kicking snow plumes into the air which dim its light to a silver glow.

Fine snow crystals filled the air as we paused at Minot, a service stop, where the crew was changed.  The temperature in our sleeper was 73 degrees, but outside the weather was below freezing and people were dressed in heavy layers of warm clothing. The newspaper reported a low of 6F and a high of 18F. 

Passengers were invited to a wine and cheese tasting in the dining car.

Mountains on the horizon, the Bear Paw Range, were so remote that no roads go into the area. The sun flamed out and the Empire Builder climbed through the Rocky Mountains in the dark. We relaxed with good books.

Splitting for Portland. After midnight, the Empire Builder split into two segments at Spokane. Our half continued into Portland, while the other portion headed for Seattle.

We awoke with the Columbia River flowing past as a sunbeam guilded the train. Across the river on the Oregon side, the snow-covered volcanic peak, Mt Hood, loomed.

The deep Columbia River Gorge was stark, rocky desert until we reached Bingen-White Salmon; suddenly pines began to appear on the hills. It was December 4th, yet scantily clad trees still wore yellow and red foliage. Clad in evergreen foliage, the mighty river gorge became the most scenic part of this train’s route.

In the Lounge Café, travelers reminisced about past trips, detail future trips, and tried to one-up each other. “I’ve been to all 50 states except Hawaii,” a woman claimed, “and I’d like to go there to see the palm trees.” We tried to tune them out and enjoy the present moment.

At Portland, on December 5th, we detrained and waited in the first-class Metropolitan Lounge for the last segment of our trip home. Portland provided many diversions; some of our fellow passengers visited the legendary Powell’s Book Store. The Chinese Gardens were only a short walk away from the station.

At 2 p.m., we boarded Coast Starlight #11 to complete the grand circle of our route.

After crossing the Willamette River, where seagoing ships were loading, the Superliner threaded its way out of the city. Sunshine and verdant fields appeared in the Willamette Valley. While it looked like spring outside, the temperature was just above freezing. 

Our car attendant presented us with chilled champagne.

Of all Amtrak’s trains, only the Coast Starlight carries a Pacific Parlour Car, a first-class lounge complete with books and board games. Overstuffed chairs and sofas were arranged in conversational groups. It is possible to have meals in the lounge at booths for two, which gives one the feeling of being in a private club.

As the sun set, the train climbed into the Cascade Mountains. We arrived a half-hour early into Klamath Falls, back where we started. We’d been gone for five weeks, connected with friends and relatives, and traveled about 7,400 miles.

Amtrak Works With Travel Agents

Amtrak pays 8% on long distance trains. While short distance trains are usually not commissionable, if they are booked as part of a reservation, Amtrak pays 8% on the whole booking.  Amtrak also works with agency marketing groups, paying overrides for achieving sales growth.

Next week — Rail Travel: How the Blishaks Grew their Niche