In the Age of Overtourism, the Residents of This Tiny Caribbean Island Actually Want Visitors

Many globetrotters have never heard of Saba, let alone visited (or know it’s pronounced “SAY-buh” not “sah-buh”). With a population of 2,000 and only four villages, Sabans know fellow islanders by name and notice any new faces with a smile.

Visitors receive friendly hellos whenever they see another person. Questions yield excellent advice on pastry selections (Bizzy B’s apple turnover), hiking and dive sites, and new initiatives to protect the island and its culture (check out the electrical transformer boxes turned into scavenger hunt history lessons). During an October 2024 visit, several Sabans shared that residents want more tourists and enjoy chatting about the island and their families. “They’ll talk to you for hours if you let them,” says one local, though they caution that the island’s goats are a topic best left unmentioned.

Eco-Friendly Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean

Nicknamed the Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean, Saba is 28 miles southwest of the key Caribbean hub of Sint Maarten — an easy day trip or a relaxing part of a longer Dutch Caribbean vacation.

Just five square miles, most of Saba is the sloping sides of a dormant volcano. The peak, aptly named Mount Scenery, is the highest point in the entire Kingdom of the Netherlands at 2,910 feet. Saba’s tiny size and lack of beaches are partly why it’s so unknown, though the island does have one (sometimes two) sandy stretches: a protected, man-made beach near the airport and, occasionally between March and October, Wandering Beach’s black sands.

Energetic or Artistic: What to Do in Saba

Scuba divers make up a large portion of Saba’s visitors (and its population of expats). The close-to-shore walls, pinnacles, and seamounts of Saba National Marine Park are home to abundant ocean life, including seahorses, reef sharks, and juvenile turtles.

Flora and fauna flourish topside too. Designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International, Saba’s varied topography hosts more than 100 bird species, including the acrobatic red-billed tropicbird and the yellow-bellied bananaquit.

Hikers can choose from 20 maintained trails that wind through different ecosystems, including the cloud forest and tidepools. One popular route is The Ladder, which combines Saba’s history with a serious workout. Its 800 zigzagging stone steps, first hewn in the 1650s, were once used to lug cargo — by both people and donkeys — from Ladder Bay to Saba’s first village and now capital, The Bottom. Despite its name, The Bottom sits higher than the bay, and its name is actually an anglicization of the Dutch term De Botte, meaning “the bowl,” referring to the valley where the village is located.

For less strenuous activities, Saba has an accomplished creative community that is happy to share its skills and products. A lush alternative to artsy San Miguel de Allende, Saba’s artisans offer workshops in eco-dyeing silk and paper with local flowers, firing glass into beads, creating Shibori-technique textiles from locally grown indigo, and sculpting clay ceramics.

Many visitors simply focus on soaking up Saba’s tranquil views and peaceful atmosphere. Just heed local advice: don’t ask Sabans about the free-roaming goats. Opinions on efforts to curb the hungry goats’ environmental impact can get heated.

Saba’s Boutique Hotels, Villas, and Self-Catering Cottages

Most accommodation options are in and around Windwardside, which has the most tourist infrastructure. Juliana’s Hotel, for example, offers rooms, suites, and cottages. The Bottom, the capital and home to Saba’s medical school, has options like the serene Haiku House, a three-bedroom retreat with multiple terraces and a pool.

Looking ahead, The Scenery, a 30-key luxury property with an infinity pool, is slated to open in 2025.

Logistics for Travel to Saba

Most visitors to Saba arrive from Sint Maarten’s Princess Juliana International Airport (SXM). The airport, served by all major U.S. and Canadian airlines and four Caribbean carriers, is a four-hour flight from New York and three hours from Miami.

Two ferries travel between Saba and Sint Maarten, with the 90-minute crossing offering scenic views — though seas can be choppy. The flight from Sint Maarten to Saba, operated by Winair, takes just 12 minutes and offers the unique thrill of landing on the world’s shortest commercial runway — an experience often compared to landing on an aircraft carrier. Private charters are also available.

Visitors to Saba need a passport, and as of October 2024, they must complete a digital Embarkation-Disembarkation (ED) Card before returning to Sint Maarten. Saba charges a $10 departure tax (cash only, U.S. dollars accepted), and ATMs are only available in Windwardside and The Bottom. The official currency is the Netherlands Antilles guilder, though U.S. dollars and euros are widely accepted.

Most Sabans speak English, along with at least one other language. To get around the island, visitors should book an airport taxi in advance unless their hotel or tour operator arranges transportation. Rental cars are available, but drivers should be prepared for The Road’s steep hills and hairpin turns. It’s so easy to scrape a car on Saba’s narrow streets that the resulting marks are affectionately dubbed “Saba kisses.”