Sailing the Danube on AmaMagna: A Look at the Classic European River Cruise Itinerary

River cruising has existed for well over a century, but the modern experience of river cruising exploded in popularity just over the last 10 or so years. The ASTA River Cruise Expo (now in its fourth year) is doing a phenomenal job of spreading the word within the industry. The event has facilitated thousands of travel advisors setting foot on these marvelous vessels and sampling the rich appeal of the slow travel pace and immersive encounters that unfold for guests while plying the rivers.  

Even so, there remains a broad swath of the travel advisor community that has no first-hand knowledge of what this niche can offer their clients. So my intent in this article is to share the details of a most wonderful river cruise that I took, sailing the Danube aboard AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna on what I considered to be the gold standard of classic European river cruising.  

Starting in Budapest Pre-Cruise 

I was fortunate to begin my adventure with a week in Budapest for a press tour and industry event, with the posh Kempinski Hotel Corvinus as my home base. Prior to departure, a well-traveled colleague mentioned that Budapest is her favorite Central European city…and now I fully understand why. Hungary’s captivating Budapest is an authentic and compelling destination that both seasoned travelers and first-time European visitors can explore not just once, but return to again and again. 

Budapest combines Old World charm with a vibrant, contemporary energy. Among its allure are eclectic architecture and iconic landmarks (the Parliament Building, St. Stephen’s Basilica, Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion, Városliget City Park); rich history (medieval castles, Heroes’ Square, WWII and Cold War relics); a lively nightlife (“ruin bars” in the Jewish Quarter are a novel concept to be sampled); and over a hundred long-standing thermal baths and spas.  

And don’t forget the shopping; at the Great Market Hall alone (just a short walk away from Kempinski), my curated haul included a luxurious grey fur vest, a dark brown fur hat, a stunning red/gold/brown/orange wrap, tins of goose liver pâté, local Hungarian paprika, and the most delicious locally made sausages. 

Rounding out this grand city, Budapest serves up culinary delights and fine wines, as well as hearty Hungarian dishes like goulash, paprikash, lángos, and of course, strudel for dessert (I recommend taking a cooking class with a local expert for a thoroughly engaging and hands-on experience—my cooking class partner and I were tasked with making cherry strudel, yum!).  

Plus there are easy day trips available from Budapest to wineries; the delightful Baroque town of Szentendre; or to Domonyvölgy for a presentation of traditional Hungarian horsemanship, archery, music, dancing, attire, and cuisine. I discovered all of this before my river cruise even began! It was certainly a successful pre-cruise add-on. 

Casting Off, Parliament Alight at Night (Day One) 

As I approached the riverbank to embark on the AmaMagna, her sleek silhouette and gangway seemed to be cheerfully beckoning me with a “Come aboard!” And the welcome of the staff was just as eager. I instantly felt like an honored guest, returning home to a familiar place, even though I had never sailed on AmaWaterways before. I could hardly wait to see what happened next. 

We had the afternoon to settle in, unpack, get to know the ship and the staff, peruse the itinerary and excursion options, and have a scrumptious dinner with a perfect glass of local wine.  

The AmaMagna has four restaurants, each with its own atmosphere. The Main Restaurant offers elegant fine dining, while The Chef’s Table (definitely recommended!) creates a more intimate evening with a multi-course tasting menu prepared in an open kitchen. Jimmy’s is lively and communal with family-style dishes; and Al Fresco pairs fresh, vegetable-forward cuisine with panoramic river views. Every meal I had onboard was delicious, crafted from fresh local ingredients and celebrating the flavors of the regions we passed through, as well as serving up the classics. The wine and spirits also fit the bill for an elevated culinary experience.  

My stateroom was well appointed, comfortable, and spacious. I stayed in a standard category cabin, and I had plenty of room. The bed and linens, as well as all the amenities, met the standards of any upscale hotel. Custom lighting could be easily adjusted to my mood with the click of a button. A small desk area offered the perfect spot to get work done while moseying down the river. I was surprised to see how roomy the marble-appointed bathroom was. And my private balcony enticed me to sit comfortably when I needed some downtime and watch the world float by.  

As for the upper category suites, a new friend that I made onboard invited me to stop by to see her accommodation, which was impressive and inviting—for guests who have the discretionary funds for an upgrade. 

I learned that the AmaMagna is purportedly the widest river cruise ship in Europe. Its girth is double wide, and that extra dimension can be felt as you stroll down the passageways, move about in the cabins and suites, and in the expansiveness of the public spaces.  

As few other things to note…WiFi is included, a big plus. A laundry service is available. The dress code is smart casual for day (layering is key, comfortable walking shoes, a hat, and a raincoat just in case) and casual elegance for evenings. There is also a wellness center onboard (with massage, yoga, fitness room, a pickleball court on the top deck)—but I was too busy indulging in the many excursions throughout the cruise to sample any of the onboard wellness options. 

As night fell, it was time for the sailaway (when I heard the familiar blast of the ship’s horn, my heart skipped a beat with excitement). Casting off on a river cruise from Budapest at night is absolutely magical! As the vessel slowly glides with a whisper away from the dock and up the waterway, the Hungarian Parliament Building comes into view, illuminated in all its glory, the Gothic spires and golden glow reflected in the Danube’s dark waters, offering a breathtaking sendoff. There was total silence on deck as we all drank in the indelible moment.  

Eventually, I made my way to my cabin for a lovely night’s rest, in anticipation of what would unfold on the days to follow.  

There’s Buda & There’s Pest, Hungary (Day Two) 

On the official second day of the cruise, we were still in Budapest. The bus and walking tours began. We learned that Budapest is divided into Buda and Pest, because it was originally two separate cities—each on opposite sides of the Danube River—with distinct histories, geographies, and functions. Although Buda, Pest, and a smaller third city of Óbuda (“Old Buda”) were unified into one capital called Budapest in 1873, the natural division of the Danube running through it continues to define the city’s character, with Buda offering tranquility and history, and Pest buzzing with cosmopolitan life. It’s all part of the distinctive charm of this great city. 

The day’s excursions visited many of the most prominent areas and attractions that I already mentioned in my pre-cruise stay, so I won’t repeat them here. But I will say that the excursions are the heart and soul of river cruising—and with Ama, they’re included in the cruise package price. A guest could simply sit on the top deck of the ship or on their private balcony and serenely watch the world go by. But for most aficionados of river cruising, the daily onshore excursions are the highlights of the journey, delivering you with such ease to the cultural centerpoint of the villages, towns, and cities along the river.  

During the cruise, AmaWaterways provides complete itineraries, with various levels of activity to accommodate all guests, and you have the flexibility to choose every day how many and which excursions you want to participate in. It’s all so effortless—they handle every detail, and you just show up and be wowed. I felt like I covered so much ground, discovered so many new places, during this seven-day journey, but I also felt fully rested and replenished. I attribute this to the gentle lulling of the ship on the river that you return to in between the tours and each night that fortifies and rebalances you daily.   

Bratislava, Slovakia—What a Surprise! (Day Three) 

By day three, I had settled quite nicely into my personal river cruising routine. No need for getting one’s sea legs (as is needed on an ocean cruise), since there are no waves. Actually, the slight movement of the ship gliding over the water at about 10 miles an hour or less on a river cruise is entirely soothing. 

At this point, I made a few more general observations about river cruising. Namely, how the type of traveler attracted to river cruising is most likely not an avid ocean cruiser, especially those drawn to the mega ships. River cruising is not for travelers who expect a rousing nightlife with late hours spent at nightclubs, bars, and spectacular shows; or those who want non-stop, high-energy activities throughout every day and night.  

River cruising is a gentler and more sophisticated way of traveling. There’s plenty to do and see during the day on the excursions, but it’s more of an early-to-bed-early-to-rise crowd, and there isn’t much in terms of evening entertainment onboard (except for some live music in the lounge).  

Also, it’s probably not a great fit for families with little ones in tow, as most river cruises embody an adults-only atmosphere. And people with limited mobility or using a wheelchair would have some challenges with the ships and excursions (many of which include extended periods of walking and uneven surfaces). Just some things for travel advisors to note. 

While entertaining my own musings on this morning, I found myself also anticipating hearing the Cruise Manager Cesario’s enthusiastic voice over the public address system alerting us to the day’s excursions, departure times, and the weather report (it was nice to know if a raincoat and hat were needed). And this day turned out to be a wonderful surprise. 

Of the three 8 a.m. excursions offered, I opted for the one-and-a-half-hour Coronation City Walking Tour. A tough choice, since the other options were Tastes of Slovakia and Bratislava Castle Hike. I chose well, and what a delight Bratislava was!  

Our tour guide expertly led us around the compact and pedestrian-friendly city. It charms with a blend of medieval history, Baroque architecture, and a relaxed atmosphere. The Old Town is a maze of cobbled streets, pastel buildings, and lively cafés, anchored by landmarks like Bratislava Castle and St. Martin’s Cathedral.  

And then there’s the quirky public art in The Old Town: Čumil (“The Watcher”), a bronze statue of a man popping up from a manhole, smiling mischievously; Schöne Náci, a tribute to a real Bratislava eccentric who walked the streets in a top hat and tails, tipping his hat to women. Before returning to the ship, a few of us took a pause to sip a delectable Espresso Macchiato at a small, outdoor corner café. I still remember just how good it tasted. 

Back onboard, Captain René set a course upriver. I finally carved out some time to just sit by myself on the top deck (in perfect weather, cool but sunlit with a calm breeze), letting the ship waft me along with its soothing cadence, as I gently gazed at the countryside rolling by and the occasional locals enjoying the day along the riverbank.  

There’s something so magical about coming around the bend and being surprised by the sight of ruins of a castle or a fortress up on the hill, like the one as we passed through Engelhartstetten in the lower part of Austria on this day. 

Eventually, we docked in Vienna, Austria. That evening, Ama had arranged a Mozart & Strauss concert ashore at one of Vienna’s famed concert houses. What finer place is there to let classical strains wash over and transport you to an earlier time than at a historic hall in the Music Capital of the World?  

Breathtaking Imperial Vienna, Austria (Day Four) 

At noon, we disembarked from the ship for the three-and-a-half-hour Vienna bus and walking tour. I spent the afternoon being astonished by its regal splendors, including the majestic Opera House, the former Imperial Palace of the Habsburgs, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and the city’s historic center (which is brimming with architectural marvels, Baroque castles, and lush gardens).  

We also saw the majestic Ringstrasse (Vienna’s famed ring road) lined with grand buildings, monuments, and parks. We briefly stopped by the Spanish Riding School Lipizzan Stud Piber, an Austrian institution based in Vienna that is dedicated to the preservation of centuries-old classical dressage and the training of Lipizzaner horses—and there, we stole a glimpse at the majestic and famed all-white dancing stallions. 

Afterwards, we had free time to stroll along the Kartnerstrasse (the most prestigious shopping street in central Vienna, spacious and vibrant, but also emanating a relatively calm vibe for a major city). It was also the perfect moment for a cappuccino and Sachertorte at a streetside café, and indulging in some people watching. 

That day, some of the other guests opted instead for a more rigorous 3-hour Vienna city tour by bike; or a walking tour of The Palace of Schönbrunn (a Rococo palace spanning an astounding 1,441 rooms, and an exquisite example of Baroque architecture and opulence, illustrating the tastes, interests and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs).  

Some also wiled away the rest of the evening in Vienna, while others returned to the ship. For me, it was back onboard for a satiating meal with new onboard acquaintances, followed by a much-deserved rest in my welcoming cabin. 

Krems & Spitz, Austria—Apricot Schnapps & a Benedictine Abbey (Day Five) 

“Good morning!” came Cesario’s comforting voice over the communications system. Time to get up and at ‘em! After another tasty and fortifying breakfast onboard, I chose the Apricots & Sweets morning excursion to a local vineyard where the star was not wine…but apricots! Yes, our small group of about 10 people experienced an apricot tasting (wine, liquor, and brandy!). We learned about the history and processing of this sweet fruit in the Wachau Valley, and then had free time to explore the little village filled with quaint shops and locally made, apricot-centric delights. 

The short ride back to our floating home passed by more small, picturesque villages. But the best part was when our guide joked that the locals use Schnapps (remember that we had just tasted apricot Schnapps) for everything. She said, “If you have a headache, take a shot of Schnapps. If you’re getting a cold, take a shot of Schnapps. If your boyfriend just left you, have a bottle of Schnapps!” It was a playful moment that had the entire bus reeling in belly laughs…and it’s those types of connections made with locals and fellow guests that makes travel so worth it! Because river cruise ships are small compared to ocean-going vessels (Ama averages just 150 guests), the intimate atmosphere makes it easy to make new kindred friends. 

What’s more, I had woken up that day with a scratchy throat, so while at the apricot vineyard I bought a small bottle of Schnapps. I took one shot before bed the next three nights, and lo and behold, that cold passed right on by. Lesson learned. Now, you must understand that the Schnapps in Austria is nothing like what American teenagers buy from the supermarket and guzzle; instead, it’s wonderfully aromatic and flavorful, with subtle floral and nutty undertones, and so smooth—just delicious! 

Well, all of this was just the first part of day five. After lunch back on the ship, we gathered again at the tour bus just passed the gangway and we were whisked off for the Melk Abbey tour. Located above the town of Melk on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube, the Melk Abbey is one of Europe’s largest and most revered Baroque monasteries—it was spectacular. Founded in the 11th century, this Benedictine Abbey now houses a museum chronicling its history and a famous library with countless medieval manuscripts, as well as an esteemed collection of musical manuscripts. But the frescos on the walls and ceilings, so magnificent that they left many of us speechless. 

While standing in the courtyard waiting for our bus to head back to the ship, I heard the sweetest, most ethereal sound…a children’s choir with their beautiful and innocent blended voices practicing a piece in a room with open windows up on the second floor. I was captivated. Out came my cellphone to record, and I still listen to that 30-second clip from time to time for its soothing quality. Another one of the those unforgettable, synchronistic moments that can occur on a river cruise. 

There was one more element to this very full and satisfying day…on the way back to the ship, we stopped in Spitz for an outdoor wine tasting and music at the historic Klosterhof, the former wine press house of St. Gottweig Abbey. The pleasant surprises just kept coming. 

Fairytale Medieval Český Krumlov, Czech Republic (Day Six) 

We journeyed upriver overnight to reach our next port of call: Linz, Austria. Nine a.m. excursion departure time. Although the optional full-day Salzburg tour (with its focus on classical music, architecture, and medieval history) sounded fantastic, I chose the Český Krumlov day trip just over the Austrian border into the Czech Republic (as I had never been to Czech). This was the only bus ride during the river cruise that was long (three hours until we arrived), but the often-windy mountain roads revealed exquisite and expansive mature forests of evergreens around every turn. An opportunity to just relax for a bit.  

I confess, this was my favorite day of the entire trip. Český Krumlov is a storybook medieval town in the Czech Republic, known for its UNESCO-listed Old Town, winding cobblestone streets, and the spectacular Český Krumlov Castle perched above the curving Vltava River. Its well-preserved Renaissance and Baroque architecture, charming squares, and vibrant arts scene make it feel like you stepped back in time. Highlights of the day were too many to name, but among them were the small hand-painted tiles depicting scenes of local significance that I acquired, and the delectable impromptu pasta meal I shared with a fellow guest at a tiny outdoor café on a sidestreet of the medieval town. 

When back on the AmaMagna, we traveled at night to arrive in the morning at our final destinations. 

The Old Baroque Town in Passau, Germany (Day Seven) 

By day seven, I was beginning to feel filled to the brim with all of the new places I had experienced and the fabulous food and wine I had enjoyed. But there was still room for the two-hour walking tour of Passau, Germany. I didn’t want to miss anything. 

Known as the “City of Three Rivers,” Passau sits at the convergence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz Rivers. This picturesque Bavarian town has a Baroque Old Town (shaped by Italian architects), and is dominated by St. Stephen’s Cathedral (home to one of the world’s largest pipe organs—which we heard being played by a master musician). Passau, with its cobbled lanes, riverside promenades, and hilltop fortress (Veste Oberhaus), offers a blend of historic charm and scenic beauty. 

At one point on the tour, we came face to face with a group from another established river cruise line. As we stepped to the side of the stairwell leading to the river to let them pass (they seemed to be in a hurry, and we were not), we waited and waited as they just kept coming. I counted at least 35 people on their tour, as opposed to our 12 or so. Ama’s excursions are kept small, so the adventures feel more intimate and there is good interaction among guests. Definitely a plus. 

While traveling, sometimes it’s the smallest moments that stay with you the most. Now at the river’s edge, our guide told us that a famed story says that, one day, a young boy named Adolf Hitler was drowning in the river, and a local man pulled him out and saved him, just over there. Silence again amongst us. What a difference that decision and action made for the future for all of humanity. Makes you think. 

By noon, all guests were back onboard, and we floated up the river to our last stop, Vilshofen, Germany. But along the way, co-owners Rudi Schreiner and Kristin Karst gave us the most wonderful treat. Most of the guests were travel advisors, and Schreiner invited us to gather in the main lobby area of the ship, where he gave an impromptu talk on the history of river cruising.  

Dubbed the “the godfather of river cruising,” Schreiner is like royalty in the river cruise industry, and rightfully so, given that he harkens back to the beginning of modern river cruising and he has been involved in multiple top brands. The presentation (more like an informal chat with friends) was fascinating, and was followed by a Q&A session where both Schreiner and Karst generously, and often humorously, responded to every question posed by travel advisors. It was obvious how their graciousness, commitment to living joyfully, and accessibility truly sets the tone for the brand, and that trickles from the top down through the ranks of staff to touch every guest throughout their days onboard. That’s what I mean when I say AmaWaterways is the gold standard of European river cruising. 

And the generosity continued when Rudi and Kristen also invited me to share a private lunch with them at their personal table in the kitchen. I simply must use their first names here, because they treated me like an old friend with open arms. While sharing spaetzle, sausages, and other regional delights, we casually talked about life, family, travel, and their passion for river cruising. It was a chat, not an interview, which I so appreciated and was deeply moved by. 

Time passed quickly, and now it was 4 p.m. Our Danube river cruise culminated in the delightful Bavarian town of Vilshofen, where we were welcomed by representatives from the city, and entertained with an exclusive mini-Oktoberfest by the riverside, complete with Bavarian folk music and dancing, and of course, Bavarian beer. 

Saying Goodbye (Day Eight) 

After another wonderful night’s sleep, the time had come to say goodbye…to the ship, to new friends, to the staff, and to the lands we had just explored. AmaWaterways had gifted me with an exceptional travel adventure, from the staff to the staterooms, the excellent excursions, the food and wine, and the fellow guests.  

The very best part was the ease of discovery, waking up in a new port each day and heading into town, falling into sync at once with the tempo of each place and its people. I think that’s what makes river cruising a truly distinctive way of traveling, and for many, once you try it, you may not want to go back to any other form of travel! 

Now I understand what Kristen meant when she told me during lunch that she felt most at home on the river. And I promised myself I would be back, and continue to travel the world’s rivers in the elegant but affable style that Rudi and Kristen embodied in their personal interactions and with their brand.   

My declaration will be easy to fulfill, since AmaWaterways has 29 ships sailing on four continents, hosting guests on many iconic European waterways as well as rivers in Africa, Asia, and South America. Furthermore, the overall river cruise sector has grown exponentially in both fleet size and global reach, now with about 27 dedicated river cruise lines and over 400 vessels operating globally.  

For travel advisors who aren’t yet selling this niche but are considering it, or those who want to expand their repertoire, I say, “Please go experience it for yourself!” And remember that Ama only books guests through travel advisors. Maybe I’ll see you onboard this year!